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R^ecollections of 

Early Elkhart 




By E,. J. DAVIS, 

St. Jo RiverPitot, 1841 



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THt LtfcRAHYOF 
CONGRESS. 

Two Copies Received 

DEC 29 1902 

Copyngnt Entry 
CLASS C^ • XXc. No 



'copy b. 



Prologue 



A Word to Readers. 

TN this little work will be found informa- 
tion not before seen in print, concern- 
ing the industries, trade and commerce of 
pioneer Elkhart and wholly different froin 
records heretofore published. These 
recollections are those of a man who was 
an active and observant resident of what 
was here in a very early day and though 
not in trade he was in a business about 
which people of to-day, among later gen- 
erations at least, know little or nothing. 
It is known in a general way that there 
was a river trade on the St. Joseph, but, 
with a very few exceptions, none know the 
magnitude of that trade, and since the 
village was very small evidently a work 



simply dealing with its primitive life and 
shorn of all rhetorical embellishments and 
lengthy told tales must be brief. The 
object was to make a brief record of 
primitive Elkhart and her primitive con- 
nection with the outside world, and further, 
that the St. Jo River was the great high- 
way and gave employment to more people 
and represented a greater money invest- 
ment than all other traffic. The historian 
having been a pilot, of which profession 
he is the sole survivor, has told much that 
no other can tell, and much that has never 
been recorded. This little work was not 
gotten up for profit, but simply to record 
pleasant memories of two generations 
gone and to tell this public what has never 
before been told. 



Recollections of 

Early Elkhart 



St. Jo River's Influence. 

All the historians of this county have 
given detailed accounts of the politics 
and early settlements, but so far none 
have given attention to the real early 
architects who devoted their money, brains, 
and energies to the development and 
expansion of the present Elkhart from its 
small beginnings. These, the real pioneers 
of this city, their investments and indus- 
tries, which are the nucleus of all we now 
enjoy, have never engaged the attention of 
writers on the early reminiscences of this 
city. To peruse the average history as 
written one could scarcely guess the con- 



nections with the outer world, how the 
village lived or by what methods or agents 
its traffic and trade were handled. The 
St. Joseph River, the prime factor and 
highway for all the commerce and trade 
demanded by the country tributary, is 
simply alluded to as a beautiful stream 
or passed over as an insignificant factor, 
while of a truth, it was the whole thing 
that gave impetus to every business, trade, 
and industry herein located. It was the 
great artery that joined the city or village 
to Chicago and the great developer of the 
great expanse of territory outlying for 
over a hundred miles east, the business, 
trade, and commerce of all of which went 
by this river and passed through Elkhart 
both east and west. This is apparently 
an insignificant matter in the works of the 
historians who have gone before. If only 
they had alluded to the fleet of water- 
craft and the scores of warehouses doing 
business on and along this river for a 



hundred and seventy-five miles from Lake 
Michigan and that all the cereals grown in 
this extensive territory and all the mer- 
chandise demanded in return for con- 
sumption of whatever nature, this mag- 
nificent stream or highway would occupy 
its historic place in trade and commerce 
as it does in scenic beauty, for fully seven- 
teen thousand five hundred square miles 
of the best grain-growing territory in the 
country contributed its wealth to and was 
floated down this river and all the mer- 
chandise floated up. 



My Arrival. 

On June 17th, 1841, I came to this 

village from Shelby County, Ohio, and 

have continually resided here. I was 

then in my seventeenth year of age and 

started to make my way in the world. On 
my way here I stopped for nine days at 



Wolf Lake, Noble County, Indiana, where 
I found employment on the dam then 
under construction. 



The Village as I Found It. 

This village at that time had a popula- 
tion of something like two hundred and 
fifty souls, which was confined to that 
portion now known as North Elkhart as 
compared with the whole of the present 
city. Jackson Street, which is really the 
old Vistula road, was the great east and 
west thoroughfare while the business or 
trade portion was confined to that 
street and Main Street south to Pigeon 
Street. The mails were carried over the 
Vistula road, between Detroit, Ft. Wayne 
and Chicago by stagecoaches and these 
arrived on Jackson Street with the Hotel 
Bucklen site as a center. This site was 
occupied by a frame tavern whose land- 
lord was named Runyon, who took as 



much pride in his house and tables as the 
best do to-day. Opposite on the corner 
where now stands the Bucklen Drughouse, 
was also a frame tavern whose landlord 
was Eli Penwell, afterwards the first 
sheriff after the county had taken on 
judicial garments. This tavern was the 
stagehouse where the Detroit and Chicago 
stages stopped for an exchange of horses, 
this being a regular relay station and as 
important and interesting as the railway 
station of to-day. These stage arrivals 
brought the villagers to the tavern for 
news and curiosity the same as train 
arrivals invite the crowds to-day for a like 
purpose, to scrutinize and interrogate. 
The tavern called "The American" was 
built in 1844 on the site where now stands 
the Elkhart House and was supervised by 
Presley Thompson as landlord. On the 
peak of this tavern was mounted a huge 
steel triangle which was struck to call 
guests to meals or to announce that some- 



thing had happened or was about to 
happen out of the ordinary. It too was 
sounded on the arrival of stages. This 
"sounder" was constructed and hung by 
Robert D. Braden, who then carried on 
blacksmithing. The ''sounder" had the 
ear of every citizen day or night and had 
more influence on the population than 
could be told in the way of what was tak- 
ing place — it was the monitor that was 
always heeded by everybody. The iron 
workers and blacksmiths were George N. 
Martin and Robert Sanford, (partners), 
James Keeler, James Shaw and Robert D. 
Braden, all of whom did no small part in 
forging the village to a healthy condition. 
Martin and Sanford were not only in the 
smith business but were prominent and 
partners in many other of the useful enter- 
prises so necessary in the development 
of a young town, and so they are found in 
the lumber business, pottery manufacture 
and the operating of sawmills, the first 



and last being among the prominent 
developing factors for any town or country. 
Martin constructed the first dam across 
the Elkhart River a short distance above 
the present Lane dam, and though a brush 
creation, it served long and well. The 
present raceway is the same that in those 
days conveyed the water to the two saw- 
mills located near where now stands the 
Lane Paper Mill opposite Pigeon Street. 
On this water-power Davenport and Fisher 
had a distillery in 1841, but it was either 
destroyed or removed and on the site a 
grist-mill was erected and run by Elisha 
Harn. All that property on Jackson Street 
east of Bucklen House to the Elkhart 
River, including all the buildings, among 
which was a dwelling, was in the market 
and for sale for fifty dollars. To-day fifty 
thousand could not buy it and this is but 
one of many such instances of valuable 
holdings, the output of the little village 
of sixty years ago. Of the pioneer 



mercantile trade, the following named 
were the firms and individuals who sup- 
plied the village and surrounding country 
with all the needs and demands of civilized 
life, each and all engaging in a general 
merchandizing business, as no one branch 
could safely and profitably be conducted 
by itself; but each being able to answer all 
demands, thrift attended their efforts in 
opening up this new country. John 
Davenport and Son, Samuel Simonton, 
James and Anthony Defrees and Philo 
Morehous were the leading ones to con- 
tribute their money, brains, and energy in 
this undertaking and how well they foresaw 
our future greatness may best be told by 
looking out on the accretions they left for 
their legatees and the beautiful city now 
ours as the fruition of their acumen applied 
to industrial pursuits and a legacy left for 
generations to come. 



A Transformation. 

On the northeast corner of Pigeon and 
Main Streets there was a two-story build- 
ing intended for another tavern but it was 
never utilized as such and in 1842 it was 
appropriated to a large cooperage business 
which flourished for a time and then went 
out of business. The building was erected 
by George N. Martin and in later years it 
was removed east and converted into a 
carriage and wagon factory and finally that 
trade ceased and it was transformed into 
a livery stable and operated by William 
Hiller and Henry Betts. That stable stood 
where now the Meader Livery is located 
and finally disappeared to make room 
for more modern conveniences. 

The Asheries* 

There were two asheries, one conducted 
by Levinus Pearce at the foot of High 



Street on the St. Joseph River and the 
other managed by Philo Morehous on the 
Elkhart River at the foot of Jefferson 
Street, and though of no great proportions, 
they were among the necessities of civilized 
life. 

The Band. 

In 1844 was organized the first musical 
or outdoor band with brass instruments 
under Joseph Pearson as bandmaster or 
musical director. E. R. and J. R. Beards- 
ley were members of the organization. 

Public School. 

The only schoolhouse was on Second 
Street opposite Mrs. John Cook's resi- 
dence, R. T. Boggus being the teacher 
who right merrily wielded the birch and 
taught the boys and girls the paths of 
rectitude, 'rithmetic, reading and 'riting. 



Medical Men. 

The medical profession was represented 
by Dr. Weimer and Dr. Chamberlain, 
father of Orville T, and Livy Chamberlain. 

The Lawyers. 

The legal profession was not repre- 
sented as such, but Samuel P. Beebee, 
then Justice of the Peace, did all legal and 
attorney's work demanded below the higher 
court, a place he filled with no little credit 
to himself and to the village and he did 
all the work, which shows the fewer the 
lawyers the fewer the litigants and in that 
early day people were too few to quarrel, 
so they arbitrated their differences. 

Few Churches. 

Though churches were few Christians 
were many, and creeds, rituals and dogmas 
cut a narrow swath. The villagers held 



divine services in the different houses by 
appointment and in Old Tammany Hall 
at the corner of Jefferson and Main Streets 
and later going under the name of the Old 
Beehive. 



Pioneers' Amusements. 

As with all nations and peoples these 
pioneers had a vein of amusement to be 
gratified and there being no portable 
theaters as now, much less modes of con- 
veyances, these early people devised such 
entertainments as they could with what 
they had on hand and forced their desires 
to conform to the means readiest, so they 
laid under tribute foot-racing, horseshoe 
pitching, marbles, and such as home 
ingenuity could invent and these sports 
were enjoyed on Main Street with no idea 
of having invaded the domain of boys and 
children. One might suppose they had 
seen the Mikado and borrowed his typical 



motto, ''Let the punishment fit the 
crime" — of being a pioneer, yet remember- 
ing **a little nonsense now and then is 
relished by the best of men." 

Some Landmarks. 

General William B. Mitchell, who was 
the government agent for the removal of 
the Pottawattamie Indians from this sec- 
tion to their reservation, lived opposite 
the English Lutheran church and planted 
the beautiful pines now growing there. 
His granddaughter was the wife of the 
late United States Circuit Judge William 
A. Woods and her mother was Mary 
Mitchell Newton. 

Telegraph and Conveyance. 

The first telegraph line was built in 1844 
but public conveyance and transportation 
were delayed for several years following, 



save by stagecoach and river boats, this 
last mode serving all the purposes of a 
railroad both as to freight and passenger 
traffic, giving water transportation for 
both with one transfer (at St. Jo) from 
Elkhart to Chicago. 

Reiver Trade and Commerce. 

Nearly all the freight traffic was carried 
by boats to St. Jo and thence to Chicago. 
In the spring, summer, and autumn the 
river enjoyed a monopoly of that trade 
while in the winter a small amount was 
done by wagons, but merchants as a rule, 
laid in their supplies for the year before 
navigation closed, so it may be said in a 
general way, the river did the freighting, 
as is evinced by the fleet of water-craft 
employed in the commerce between the 
head of navigation at Three Rivers and 
the mouth of the river. These boats gave 
employment to many river-men, (each 



boat demanding from seven the smaller 
to ten men the larger as crews,) who 
otherwise would not have been here, 
besides much money was invested in boats 
and warehouses along the river, which 
last was an important factor for those 
seeking employment, these warehouses 
being the receiving and discharging depots 
of cargoes, flour to go down the river, 
(which amounted to from four hundred and 
fifty barrels of flour as cargo for the smaller 
boats to nine hundred and fifty barrels for 
the larger), and merchandise to be brought 
back, so that the St. Jo River was the 
great highway to Chicago and has done no 
little in the upbuilding of Elkhart and the 
development of the country tributary to it. 
When the days of boat traffic gave way to 
rapid transit by rail, this magnificent river 
was left to turn the wheels of countless 
industries for a farther development. The 
stream is worthy of all consideration since 
it has scores of beneficiaries all along its 



banks, Elkhart being among its prominent 
ones, and should calamity overtake land 
transportation, the river with its smiles will 
welcome its old traffic and defend its com- 
mercial and historic record; therefore it is 
meet we pay homage to it and its old 
pilots. 

Warehouses* 

In 1844 there were six river warehouses 
engaged in the traffic, one owned by 
Samuel Simonton, one by Jacob Ellis, one 
by Defrees, and another at the Island 
Park iron bridge owned by Jacob Ellis. 
There were six flour buildings connected 
with these warehouses wherein the flour 
was stored until the arrival of a boat. 
There were four on the Elkhart River and 
two on the St. Jo. One on the St. Jo 
and owned by Beardsley stood near his 
grist-mill and the other owned by Dickey 
Morton west of Eighth Street on the south 
bank of the St. Jo, so there must have 



been a flour traffic here of good propor- 
tions. The towns along the river above 
were equally important factors though not 
paralleling this village. 



The Pilot's First Voyage. 

In 1843 the historian made his maiden 
trip from Elkhart to St. Jo in a flat bot- 
tomed barge carrying a cargo of flour of 
several hundred barrels which was delivered 
at St. Jo in two days without mishap, and 
then the boat was poled back at about 
twenty-two miles per day. When the 
riffles, islands, and shoals are taken into 
account between here and St. Jo a safe 
voyage and delivery of the cargo were 
causes for congratulation, as the only sail- 
ing chart aboard or at hand was the pilot's 
memory, and many is the story told of 
dodging shoals, shooting rapids and bring- 
ing her nose up all right in the eye of the 



channel — these are the proverbial sailors' 
happenings of pleasant memory. 

Boats and Business. 

That the traffic on this river was very 
important is evidenced by its demanding 
sixty boats to care for it and this too 
between St. Jo and Three Rivers, the head 
of navigation, one hundred and seventy-five 
miles from the mouth. Among this fleet 
there was just one steamboat and she was 
owned at St. Jo and could ascend the 
river no farther than South Bend. Her 
name was "The Pocahontas," but having 
too much draught her business was 
abridged by not being able to ascend the 
river farther where so many good ports 
were located. But in a few years sub- 
sequent, steamboats of lighter draught 
came in for a share of the river trade but 
they never supplanted or laid up the 
ancient flat-bottomed barges which were 



roomy and safe for a cargo, and these did 
business and held their places until river 
trade was finally and wholly abolished. 
The steamers made good headway, occupy- 
ing only about one day between the 
extreme ports of St. Jo and Three Rivers, 
one hundred and seventy-five miles, both 
lockage and wooding included. 

Steamboats. 

The steamboats were the Pocahontas, 
Indiana, Algoma, Niles, J. F. Porter, 
Mishawaka, and Michigan, though not all 
were able to run to the head of navigation, 
their draught being too great for the upper 
waters. The Mishawaka was a wonder for 
the times, since she was a side-wheeler 
with two engines, one for each paddle 
box, so that by the direct motion of the 
one and the reverse motion of the other 
she could be brought about in her length 
or be made to spin like a top. These 



engines were thus placed in order that she 
could be made to evade obstructions quickly 
on a hardput helm. After all, the pilot 
was the man to whom the consignor 
looked for the safe delivery of the cargo 
and if he did not have his hydrographic 
chart well in his memory (for that is all he 
had) the chances of a safe voyage were 
against the consignor. To run the rapids, 
evade the shoals and keep the boat well 
in command to dodge islands and make the 
sharp turns that beset the river, his whole 
attention was continually at its best and 
highest, for let it be remembered this 
river is nothing if not a wrecker from 
source to near its mouth and these dangers 
so rapidly succeed each other that he no 
sooner has his craft out of the way of 
one than another looms in sight or, better, 
it is not quite in sight but he knows it 
when it fouls his boat. 



River Dangers. 

Between here and South Bend going 
down river, the first danger point is 
Elkhart Shoals just before reaching 
Sturgeon Riffle, where the river swings 
well to the south and is rapid; then come 
in order, Burnt Man's and Killaman's 
Riffles, then Penn's Island, next Black 
Horse, then Willow Springs, then Dead 
Man's Island, then Little Sal and Crazy 
Sal Riffles, then Baubango, then Bell's 
Riffles, then Tow Heads, then Twin 
Islands, then Mishawaka Pond, then Twin 
Riffles, then Gripes Riffles and the boat 
has only reached South Bend, so that it 
takes no great nautical knowledge to know 
that a pilot who can guide his boat through 
these danger points by his memory for a 
hydrographic chart, could handle a water- 
craft scientifically in an open sea or in a 
clever stream. But these river pilots did, 
and seldom had to report flotsam or jetsam 
to the barge office. These pilots were 



men cautious in the extreme, always 
alert, nevpr losing their heads in an 
emergency nor their grip on the tiller; 
hence, safe voyages and dry consignments 
were the rule. 



Great Flour R^epository. 

At certain times on account of unsatis- 
factory markets or very low stages of 
water or some other foreign cause, as many 
as two hundred and fifty thousand barrels 
of flour would lie in the warehouses or be 
stored elsewhere awaiting transportation. 
This village was the great flour repository 
for this section of the country, Leesburg, 
Milford, Syracuse, Waterford, Monoquet, 
Goshen, and other places north of the 
village making this place the depot for 
shipment. In those days this was a wheat 
growing territory and the yield was enor- 
mous. Too, these outlying towns away 
from the river received their freight here 



in return and this made the warehouse 
business the greatest of all the industries; 
so again are we admonished of the varied 
advantages the St. Jo River furnished. It 
is a mooted question whether the St. Jo 
River was not a greater factor in the 
upbuilding of this city than the railways, 
all things considered, and whether the 
country's development is not more largely 
due to the river than the railways. So 
important is this river that the government, 
when Judge John H. Baker was a con- 
gressman from this district, ordered a 
survey by U. S. Engineers in order to 
determine the feasibility of slack water 
navigation between here and St. Jo and 
an appropriation was made for the work, 
but it was reported to be more expensive 
than the traffic would warrant. This how- 
ever is not a finality, since the cities on its 
banks have increased tenfold in population 
and trade too since that time, and these are 
yet only in infancy. Likewise has the 



country tributary to these cities increased 
in a like ratio, so that it is a safe predic- 
tion to say that at no distant future, water 
communication will be entertained again 
between here and Chicago and this pre- 
diction has immensely more argument to 
support it than the theory of electric cars 
as an investment could have had even no 
farther back than a score of years. This 
is the age of harnessing Nature's elements 
for our uses, convenience and pleasure; 
therefore may St. Joseph again come under 
the yoke. Rivers all over the United 
States, of far less magnitude and impor- 
tance, have been improved and enlarged by 
government aid because of the demands 
for ready and cheap transportation of 
thrifty and growing cities located thereon. 
Streams in Oregon, Washington, and others 
of the newer states have been made navi- 
gable by the government, because of local 
traffic demands. The annual river and 
harbor appropriations of congress are, like 



the postal appropriations, those of the 
people as an integer and closer connected 
with general industries and well subserve 
the democratic idea of the greatest good to 
the greatest number, and to this end con- 
centrated effort is only demanded through 
our congressional representative; in a word, 
the game is well worth the ammunition. 



An Interstate Waterway- 

Every year sees this great enterprise a 
little nearer consummation, but like all 
enduring projects it is slow in formulation. 
A great ship waterway, both as a commer- 
cial and military necessity, must finally 
eventuate between the great West and tide- 
water and Elkhart is fortunately located 
on or near the alignment of that great 
work with the St. Jo River as the primitive 
factor at the initial of the work; indeed the 
estimates, one hundred millions, have 
already been made and routes lined out and 



compared. It is a gigantic enterprise to be 
sure, but this government knows no limit 
nor stops for obstructions when once it 
concludes to act — none are great enough 
to hinder or invite abandonment and this 
one has been in public favor and the public 
mind for a score of years, the survey of the 
St. Jo along in the seventies being the 
initial work on slack water navigation and 
Chicago the western terminal. The great 
industrial development of the far West, 
both agricultural and mineral, has presented 
an imperious demand for cheaper trans- 
portation of products than land conveyance 
can possibly respond to, and then there is 
a military emergency always present and 
always growing. The "Soo," the great 
outlet for this immense traffic, is ice-bound 
months in the year when a southern way 
would be in full operation and, what is an 
overwhelming argument, the distance to 
tide-water would be abridged four hundred 
miles or more. There is to-day more ton- 



nage of Western industries and products 
passing the "Soo" than is shipped from all 
the country to Europe of all the products 
and industries elsewhere, and statistics 
further show that the accommodations for 
this tonnage from the upper to the lower 
waters are quite insufficient, great as they 
are at that point, and if this be true now 
what must be the result in a few decades 
of years? But over and above all is the 
rapid development of the great West whose 
demands at present are far in advance of 
transportation facilities, with the untoward 
circumstances of cause and effect growing 
yearly. It demands no prophet nor revela- 
tion to show that a release must be had 
and that soon in order to abate the conges- 
tion, now only in its infancy. Elkhart lies 
close by or directly in the alignment of this 
great waterway. It cannot pass more 
than two miles to the south of the central 
city and it can never pass north of the 
city by reason of the topography and con- 



figuration of the country, all thalwegs run- 
ning north and south after passing to the 
north side of the St. Jo River; the river 
therefore is the lowest possible level and 
the base of all estimates, arguments, and 
engineering data. 

The T^wo Routes. 

There are simply two routes for this 
waterway, both contiguous to Elkhart, 
though one would pass through the city, 
depending somewhat on whether Michigan 
City or St. Jo were made the western ter- 
minal. Each has its special advantages, 
though the one by the St. Jo River has 
its natural ones, over the south route 
wholly artificial. This route would cut 
diagonally the streams flowing into the 
Kankakee River and would encounter 
heavy excavations at and contiguous to 
Rolling Prairie, the crest of a north and 
south ridge between the Kankakee River 



and Grapevine Creek heading near South 
Bend. It would find no feeder until tap- 
ping the Elkhart River at Goshen, but 
from thence through Wawasee Lake it 
would find good alignment until it reached 
the divide that sends the waters into the 
St. Mary's and St. Joseph and outflowing 
at Ft. Wayne, and the waters of the Elk- 
hart, Fawn River and St. Jo, outflowing 
west into Lake Michigan at St. Jo. The 
second route calls for slack water naviga- 
tion to Elkhart from St. Jo, with an abun- 
dance of feeders east to the divide above 
alluded to, with no serious obstacles or 
great excavations on the line. The dis- 
tance by this route would not materially 
differ from the south route and would have 
the natural advantages of feeders and 
lowest levels. 

The Object of the Work. 

The object of this little work is more to 
get on record what has been overlooked by 



previous writers and that the present adult 
generation and those following may know 
of Elkhart's small beginnings and compare 
them with her magnificent proportions now 
some sixty years of age and make note of 
the men and agents whence came these. 
As an ulterior design, it is to draw atten- 
tion to the beautiful river which has been 
so generous and benignant a donor for the 
gratification of our eyes and pleasures, and 
the plethora of our pockets as well; like- 
wise to call attention to a fact to be sooner 
or later entertained, its modern develop- 
ment, and if this labor shall have such an 
effect, the highest ambition of the historian 
will have been subserved. The prominent 
men and factors only have been briefly 
noticed, but they are of those connections 
and that nature never before recorded, and 
being those of an early day, the sketch 
must of necessity be brief; besides, details 
only burden a simple truth. Modern Elk- 
hart, modern factors, and what she is to- 



day have been purposely omitted and only 
primitive Elkhart has entered into consid- 
eration. These pages might have been 
indefinitely extended, but that would only 
have burdened our object and shorn our 
purpose of a simple and brief recital of 
fundamental Elkhart. 

E. J. Davis, 
St. Jo River Pilot. 




38506 DEl;29 1902 



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